Boss engine rebuild.

[RadBOSS]

Now I have to go back and re research this again so I can talk intelligently about it (old age).  I think Fatboy's comments are on the mark as to the bee hive spring advantages.  The bee hive coil is also ovated and this has some to do with its dampening characteristics and strength as well.  Also noteworthy is these springs are a little less linear than the conventional coil springs (they are not a constant spring rate).  The ones I have are listed for a big block chevy racing application (155 lbs on the seat and 377 lbs at 0.600 lift).  Dave Storlien up in Wisconsin turned me on to these.  Dave has ties with CHI and the development of their heads and intake manifold,  which is where i got my heads from.  Dave is a regular participant in that engine shoot out and has done well over the years.  He also spec'ed out the cam that Comp Cam ground for him for me.  In theory this engine will produce gobs of power up to about 6500 RPM.

I would add that at lot of this comes down to having the right component for the application.  Wrong component,  disappointing result.

Monday or so I hope to have more comments about the bee hive springs.

[jrb2*70]

Team Sho-Air,  great advise from post.
Quite an impressive list of goodies going in to your rebuild.
Just a couple of questions , what rev range are you aiming for? what horsepower does your engine guy estimate is achievable?
I suppose answering those questions will really help you finding what you want.
It could be extra costly other wise.

[Team Sho-Air]

Ok all, this is what we have come up with from your input and suggestions and my input as well, tell me what you think, 



D0ZE Boss 302 Block 4.060”
   Completely Machined Including
   Align Honing
   Square Decking
   Honing for std Bore
   Painted Correct Ford Blue

Eagle 347 Rotating Assembly
   Forged Crankshaft (Neutral Balance)
   H Beam Rods 5.400”
   Diamond Custom Forged Pistons 10.5 to 1
   Total Seal Rings (Gapless)
   King Rod and Main Bearings

SFI Balancer

Milodon 7qt Oil Pan

Melling High Volume Oil Pump

ARP Oil Pump Drive

Custom Ground Comp Cams Solid Roller Camshaft

Isky Red Zone Solid Roller Lifters

One Piece Pushrods

Aussie 2V Cylinder Heads
   Ported to Match Boss Intake
   Clean Up Bowl Work
   Manley Stainless Valves
   3 Angle Valve Job
   Comp Cams Roller Springs, Titanium Retainers
   Comp Cams Pro Magnum Roller Rockers

Boss 302 Shelby Dual Four Intake Manifold
   Holley 600cfm Carburetors
   Custom Fuel Log
   Custom Throttle Linkage
 
Customer Supplied Distributor Rebuilt and Recurved with MSD Style Pickup
   Comp Cams Composite Distributor Gear
   High Output Coil
   Black Msd Spark Plug Wires

Aluminum Water Pump

Customer Supplied Shelby Valve Covers

Carter Hi Volume Fuel Pump (Period Correct Style)

AN Fuel Line (Nickel Finish)

New Billet Aluminum Flywheel (Balanced with Assemble)

The engine will be completely blueprinted, assembled and tested on our hot run stand. We will set the timing, adjust the carburetors and adjust the valves.

[Rick67]

sounds like the right stuff. Your shop is doing the machine work and assembly, right?
What do you figure the retail cost will be?
Estimate of HP/torque at what RPM ?
Keep us in the loop on this priject.
thanks,
Rick

[Team Sho-Air]

sounds like the right stuff. Your shop is doing the machine work and assembly, right?
What do you figure the retail cost will be?
Estimate of HP/torque at what RPM ?
Keep us in the loop on this priject.
thanks,
Rick

Hey Rick,

yes my shop is doing all machine work.
retail cost is going to be about $15k that includes the cost of the shelby dual 4 v intake.
est hp 450 range torque 450 plus rpm rev limet will be set at 7200
will keep you all in the lpoop, shold take between 4 to 6 weeks tobuild and another 2 to install.
will post info and pics as we go.

 

[jrb2*70]

Mate! You will have a muther of an engine when youre finished.Cant wait to hear how it goes.
Ps Im glad that you listened to advise from the post and decided on the roller cam,lifters and the 2v heads.
Cheers G

[Rick67]

Can't wait to see the results.
The dyno run will be a good YouTube video.
lets us know how it goes.
Rick

[Team Sho-Air]

I very much appreciated the positive input and time you all took with the advice, I think the only somewhat controversial item I went with is the aluminum fly wheel, but my builder assures me this is not going to be an issue. Thank you again, and I will keep you all informed.
Scott

[RadBOSS]

0.060 over bore is a bit over the top ain't it?

I would not mess with the Aussie 2V heads and would look to the Aussie CHI heah instead.

Just a thought,  but you could save yourself about 3 - 4 grand and get one of these.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9934

Of course it won't have the Cleveland heads.

[T-Handle]

Has anyone ever heard of or using Airflowdynamics heads? Seems to me they would be heads to consider.

[BOSSMAN]

I am with the above post - why the Australian 2V head?  I have had 2 cleveland motors - one was a closed chamber 4V head and the other was a closed chamber 2V (australian) head engine. These engines were very similiar, both had single plane intakes, solid flat tappet cams, etc....  The 4V head motor would run off and leave the 2V version. 

The only other options I would look at - if you want to run something different than a Boss 302 or 4V cleveland head - would be a set of C3 NASCAR take offs, pretty much any CHI head, Kaase has a few options (C400), or even a set of the old A3 heads.  Dollar for dollar, you can make good power with a set of Boss or 4V heads. 

[Fatboy]

Radboss, Most D0ZE blocks will support the .060 overbore & it is a HP plus to make more room around those big intake valves. A quick sonic check of the bores for core shift would is good insurance, however.
  Scott, your combination should produce fine results. However, the HP estimates seem a little low to me... 470 or more would be my guesstimate & the torque figures seem somewhat optimistic... but I only ran 'torqueless' 306 cid engines.
  Might consider an oversize fuel log for the carbs. It will act as a fuel reserve for the float bowls.
  Lastly, Scott, don't worry about that aluminum flywheel! If you even approach that estimated torque figure, you honestly won't believe how fast that engine will grab RPM! (Might want to consider an RPM chip with those stainless valves.)
  Goodyear, decades ago, proved every ten lbs. of rotating weight/mass is equal to 100 lbs of vehicle weight. Scott, that aluminum flywheel effectively pulled atleast 150 lbs out of your Boss! Eh.. you ARE going to run an aluminum driveshaft, right? (Another 100lbs or more out). Ah, yes... rotating mass, the stories I could tell! We spent ten years figuring out how & where to reduce rotating mass. Free HP!
  Good luck with your project & please keep us all posted, Scott. Sincerely, Fatboy
  

[RadBOSS]

Another plus on most of the later heads like CHI and AFR is a superior combustion chamber design over the original BOSS.

[Fairlane514]

Just a thought..................since the Boss balancer is much thicker than a SFI balancer is that going to mess with pulley alignment?

[Team Sho-Air]

0.060 over bore is a bit over the top ain't it?

I would not mess with the Aussie 2V heads and would look to the Aussie CHI heah instead.

Just a thought,  but you could save yourself about 3 - 4 grand and get one of these.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9934

Of course it won't have the Cleveland heads.

60 over was a type o mistake, its 30 over. I gave the crate motor serious thought, however i want to use the Shelby 1970 dual 4v intake and i still wanted to go with a boss block for a somewhat stock type look. I will ask about the aus CHI heads?